Scuba's Model Units

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SGTscuba
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Scuba's Model Units

#1 Post by SGTscuba » Jan 01 2018

I have been making some models in the background as part of learning how to make models for Arma. I may release them here as part of a modpack but I think I will also pass them onto the dev's so that they can be integrated in everyones game, so that we can all enjoy having more models within the game itself.

I've made got the following models into the game:
-Trafalgar Class SSN

I'm currently working on the following models:
-Albatros Class 143 FAC
-Medium Mark D (WW1 Tank)

I am currently not taking requests so please don't post any as I am doing this around my job and building actual model kits.

Here is a link to the album where I upload all the pictures of any models too:
https://imgur.com/a/9OjxD

I can model and get it into game reasonably well, however I do have a lot of trouble with texturing so i'm open to any advice people can give me on that. For example I need to make the sides on my model:
https://imgur.com/0Wds0L5
Look the same as on the real thing:
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/ ... dified.jpg

Anyone got any advice on how to do this given the original isn't very good which means that I will likely have to create the texture from scratch.
My SR:U Model Project, get the latest and post suggestions here:

http://www.bgforums.com/forums/viewtopi ... 79&t=28040

Nerei
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Re: Scuba's Model Units

#2 Post by Nerei » Jan 02 2018

For the sides of the Medium Mark D is it something a bit like this you want to make (please ignore the crude nature of the drawing)?
Image

If yes I can try and cover how I made it and in general how I make such things if you want. However as I use photoshop it might not translate perfectly.

SGTscuba
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Posts: 1818
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Location: Tipton, UK

Re: Scuba's Model Units

#3 Post by SGTscuba » Jan 02 2018

Nerei wrote:For the sides of the Medium Mark D is it something a bit like this you want to make (please ignore the crude nature of the drawing)?
*SNIP*

If yes I can try and cover how I made it and in general how I make such things if you want. However as I use photoshop it might not translate perfectly.
Besides the colour, that is pretty much it.
My SR:U Model Project, get the latest and post suggestions here:

http://www.bgforums.com/forums/viewtopi ... 79&t=28040

Nerei
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Re: Scuba's Model Units

#4 Post by Nerei » Jan 02 2018

The red colour is just my usual placeholder. Almost all models I make are at some point bright red. I can make it say azure or magenta if you prefer that ^_-

I will try and write something about how I made that.
It might be a couple of days though as this is probably going to be one of those long texts with multiple images and my time is a bit limited right now.

Nerei
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Re: Scuba's Model Units

#5 Post by Nerei » Jan 04 2018

I would say the main thing here is to create shadows and with those try and create the illusion of depth.

The tracks should just be created as normal. I do not see any reason to expend effort trying to get them to line up with the track surfaces. That is easier to correct elsewhere.

For the interior structure I would simply draw it as a bevel or button effect. This will create the illusion of it protruding out from the surface. The same can be done for the raised parts of that structure. Basically think of it as a really specialised 3D button.
Just avoid creating too much perspective. Lights and shadows is what should make the effect not perspective lines.
In photoshop I generally use 808080 neutral grey for all such effects as when it is set as an overlay it turns fully transparent.
In general I do colour, lights/shadows and details separate.


Here is the basic construct I made in photoshop.
Image
Each of the numbered layer would in a more complex assembly as the one below would most likely consist of multiple layers.
That said there is basically no difference in design between it and this assembly which is taken from the T-72B in terms of methods.
Image

(1): This is the colour base. Camouflage and the like goes here but no actual details. It is just for paint and the like. Keeping colours separate means you can basically swap this layer (or group of layers) for something else and you got say a regional texture.
This group of layers would be the colour foundation for the model and control almost all colour. The exception might be things like the tracks as I generally want them in one colour anyway.
The colour change for the T-72 above is just a single layer painted magenta.

(2): This layer is there to simulate darkness in layer 1. It is a simple photoshop effect that affect the lightness of layers below it. Personally I use different shades of grey and the overlay effect.
Keep in mind such layers at least in photoshop can and in most cases will amplify each other.
Image
In the image above it is a basic blue with increasing number of 404040 grey overlays applied.

(3): This is one of the mentioned 3D button effects. In photoshop I use mainly bevel effects blending options. The small wheels are made like this and the large circles on the middle of the side are the same principle.

(4): This is basically the same as 2 just with different colour of grey as overlay. This way they can appear darker than the base structure but not as dark

(5): This is the main bright red structure. It is the exact same principle as 3. This is a good example of sometimes you need multiple layers doing basically the same to achieve something.
As this is an overlay it will most likely need to also have the same par of the canvas as any overlays placed above it or it will create strange edges.

(6): This is one of the above mentioned extra overlays. The principle is the same as 5

(7): This is a layer intended to create the shadows cast by the tracks. It is a 808080 (or 50%/128) grey covering all of the side that is set as an overlay (50% grey is fully transparent in photoshop). It is simply a blending option layer effect called inner shadow

(8): This is the grey track assembly. Normally it would be a lot more complex and use some of the methods used on the other layers but for the sake of simplicity it is just a grey ring.





The way I made it was first painting in the red background (1) then simply drew the grey track ring (8). The tracks will not have any transparency and as it is the top level there is no need to worry about the exact details of edges as long as these do go under (8).


For the lowest lightness overlay I simply copied the red background, painted it grey and set it as an overlay. For now it is just uniform grey but later I cut holes in it.


Next I drew the small wheels (3). In this case it is just a set of round blobs but they can be made more complex like say on the T-72. If so I suggest making each wheel individually and copying it to any location where it is needed. It is easier and if you feel like moving one wheel it is far easier if all layers in it only controls that.

Once drawn select all the pixels, select the base grey layer (2) and delete any pixels inside the wheels and make a copy of the wheels layer (4).
This layer I make another shade of grey and turn set it as an overlay.


Next up is the main side (5). Like with (3) it is simply a case of drawing a grey box and applying a bevel layer style. The select all pixels in (5) and going to the lower darkness layer (2) delete all pixels there like for (3). Only difference is there is no need for another light control layer as this part will not be in any kind of shadows.

(6) is the details applied on top of (5). These will also be made like (5) in that they are just grey objects with layer effects applied to them. For any shadows they drop though I find it easier to simply use photoshops drop shadow effect rather than draw them myself. If any parts of (6) ends up covering (2) simply do the select all pixels trick and remove them from (2)
Chances are some might also go beyond (5) in which case I suggest again selecting all pixels in (6) and filling that in on (5). With overlayers that should avoid strange edges appearing.
Image
The boxes to the left have had this done the ones to the right have not.

Finally there is (7). This is just a simple copy of (1) painted 808080 grey, made an overlay and with an inner shadow effect applied. As (8) is above it and without any transparency there should not be any need for adjustments except the size of the shadow.

I hope this is helpful and if you got any questions feel free to ask.

SGTscuba
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Location: Tipton, UK

Re: Scuba's Model Units

#6 Post by SGTscuba » Jan 07 2018

I've been working a bit further on the Medium Mark D, and have managed to get it into the game. The textures still need some work on them but here is the product so far:

Image

https://imgur.com/8gzO39o
My SR:U Model Project, get the latest and post suggestions here:

http://www.bgforums.com/forums/viewtopi ... 79&t=28040

SGTscuba
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Posts: 1818
Joined: Dec 08 2007
Location: Tipton, UK

Re: Scuba's Model Units

#7 Post by SGTscuba » Jul 29 2018

I've managed to acquire some time after the last 8 months of hectic work.

Here is a render of the Type 42 Batch 1 destroyer I have made, I haven't unwrapped it yet and am in the process of optimising the tri count as its 1100 tri's at the moment since I mirrored the ship to make it whole.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wsa2fk2p7dl6v ... 1.png?dl=0

Opinions?

Edit:

Heres another render:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/usdudne0wst3h ... 2.png?dl=0

Down to only 802 tri's now so its ready to unwrap I think.
My SR:U Model Project, get the latest and post suggestions here:

http://www.bgforums.com/forums/viewtopi ... 79&t=28040

Nerei
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Re: Scuba's Model Units

#8 Post by Nerei » Aug 01 2018

802 is well below just about all great war warship models. Those that I have looked at tend to be around 1-1.35K tris. The only exception I know off is HMS Dreadnought at 902.
Submarines though are a bit lower.
Not saying you should just randomly use tris for no reason but I think you can go higher if you feel the need.


The hull shape appears good and the placement of the superstructure also appears to match the vessel quite well.

The turret shape appears to be fine also.


I would suggest modifying the shape of the radomes a bit. Right now they have a bit too flat sides for my taste. The simplest option would probably be to simply adjust the sides out. that should not add to the tris count.

Also looking at pictures it appears the top of the front superstructure is narrower than the rest. With your tris count you can probably get away with adding this. It can probably be done as simple a couple of slightly modified cubes.

There is the raised decks on the side of the superstructure. adding these will probably help add detail to the side of the superstructure.
You can make these as cubes with the bottom and inner side cut off. That will only be 8 tris for each (or 10 if you extend it through the superstructure) which should be manageable. If you want to go even lower you could remove the sides also and just use 2D planes which would likely still be fine.

The supports for these decks can likewise be made as something as simple as a plane.

Looking at pictures it appears the rear part of the funnel is a bit wide. Also the box you got on top of it can probably just be done as a texture effect if you want to cut down on tris but as mentioned with 802 tris you are quite low already.

Another thing I will suggest is rotating the radars a bit to give the impression that they are moving. Wait until you are done UV-mapping though as you tend to get a better result with them positioned like they are now.


All this said it is a nice start.

SGTscuba
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Posts: 1818
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Location: Tipton, UK

Re: Scuba's Model Units

#9 Post by SGTscuba » Aug 02 2018

Nerei wrote:
Aug 01 2018
802 is well below just about all great war warship models. Those that I have looked at tend to be around 1-1.35K tris. The only exception I know off is HMS Dreadnought at 902.
Submarines though are a bit lower.
Not saying you should just randomly use tris for no reason but I think you can go higher if you feel the need.


The hull shape appears good and the placement of the superstructure also appears to match the vessel quite well.

The turret shape appears to be fine also.


I would suggest modifying the shape of the radomes a bit. Right now they have a bit too flat sides for my taste. The simplest option would probably be to simply adjust the sides out. that should not add to the tris count.

Also looking at pictures it appears the top of the front superstructure is narrower than the rest. With your tris count you can probably get away with adding this. It can probably be done as simple a couple of slightly modified cubes.

There is the raised decks on the side of the superstructure. adding these will probably help add detail to the side of the superstructure.
You can make these as cubes with the bottom and inner side cut off. That will only be 8 tris for each (or 10 if you extend it through the superstructure) which should be manageable. If you want to go even lower you could remove the sides also and just use 2D planes which would likely still be fine.

The supports for these decks can likewise be made as something as simple as a plane.

Looking at pictures it appears the rear part of the funnel is a bit wide. Also the box you got on top of it can probably just be done as a texture effect if you want to cut down on tris but as mentioned with 802 tris you are quite low already.

Another thing I will suggest is rotating the radars a bit to give the impression that they are moving. Wait until you are done UV-mapping though as you tend to get a better result with them positioned like they are now.


All this said it is a nice start.
Thanks for the feedback Nerei. I'm currently away from home so I don't have the file but I will bear these changes in mind. I've got a 1/700 scale model of the kit so i'll look at adding the side decks to it and making the radomes slightly more rounded.

I keep forgetting you don't have to make the model closed for SR.
My SR:U Model Project, get the latest and post suggestions here:

http://www.bgforums.com/forums/viewtopi ... 79&t=28040

SGTscuba
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Posts: 1818
Joined: Dec 08 2007
Location: Tipton, UK

Re: Scuba's Model Units

#10 Post by SGTscuba » Aug 04 2018

I'm back at home now and have made a few changes, I think i'm happy and ready to go and start unwrapping. Here is the untextured render so far:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wp03fq4apf6hw ... 5.png?dl=0
My SR:U Model Project, get the latest and post suggestions here:

http://www.bgforums.com/forums/viewtopi ... 79&t=28040

SGTscuba
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Posts: 1818
Joined: Dec 08 2007
Location: Tipton, UK

Re: Scuba's Model Units

#11 Post by SGTscuba » Aug 06 2018

I've been texturing the model having unwrapped it. Still working on getting the shades correct but this is it so far:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9jtzg17h1i5sz ... 1.jpg?dl=0
My SR:U Model Project, get the latest and post suggestions here:

http://www.bgforums.com/forums/viewtopi ... 79&t=28040

SGTscuba
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Posts: 1818
Joined: Dec 08 2007
Location: Tipton, UK

Re: Scuba's Model Units

#12 Post by SGTscuba » Nov 25 2018

I've been away from this for a while but have managed to get on with some texturing. I think its almost ready to hand over to the Goats.

Here's a link to some pictures of it, please tell me what you think.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mvg74sezw7nel ... 1.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/u61n6ex8dk5j5 ... 1.jpg?dl=0
My SR:U Model Project, get the latest and post suggestions here:

http://www.bgforums.com/forums/viewtopi ... 79&t=28040

SGTscuba
General
Posts: 1818
Joined: Dec 08 2007
Location: Tipton, UK

Re: Scuba's Model Units

#13 Post by SGTscuba » Dec 12 2018

I have handed the Type 42 over to BG and am now working on 2 new models. One I am not yet at a stage to show any renders but the other I will show here:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/3vg82512hfmkg ... 1.png?dl=0

Its an Illustrious class aircraft carrier. I'm in the process of optimising it as its currently 1078 tri's and I would like to get it under 1000 to meet the "standard" before I start texturing it.
My SR:U Model Project, get the latest and post suggestions here:

http://www.bgforums.com/forums/viewtopi ... 79&t=28040

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